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    [江陵点滴] 你离开江陵有多久啦?这钵盛满乡愁的干豆腐,让你涎水直流…

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    2019-2-13 16:14
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    [LV.9]大名鼎鼎

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    发表于 2018-12-3 11:02:47 | 只看该作者 |只看大图 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
    寒冬,向来寂寥。时光,在筹谋一场不期而遇的风花雪月的故事。而舌尖上的腊味向来也是如此,比如腌制豆腐干子……就像有些重逢和守候,没有预约,无需刻意,却已然成家家门前的风景,户户桌上的佳肴。

    豆腐干,小四方,金黄色,腊味香。豆腐干,俗称:干豆腐、腊干子、腌豆腐干子。它既是江陵具有乡土特色的农家菜,也是江陵人逢年过节餐桌上必有的传统菜。

    农村税费改革那年,我在郝穴永兴村包村时,每年的冬至前后,总会看到每家门前都晒满豆腐干子。我好奇地问一位大妈,你家没有几口人,为什么要嗮那么多豆腐干子?她不假思索地说,“伢儿们一年四季在外打工,回来过春节就爱吃这!彼习榱Σ寤埃骸八遣唤鱿不冻,过完年还要装一袋子走!

    我接过话问他们二老,虽说豆腐干子好吃,一袋子要吃到猴年马月!大妈笑着手一指:“伢儿上班在广州的老板,就说我们的豆腐干子特别香,口感好有嚼头,每年都要分蛮多给这老板哦!痹词钦庋,难怪听他的儿子说,“在外桌上有一碗豆腐干子,就觉得家乡就在身旁!

    干豆腐晒到这个程度刚刚好

    其制作豆腐干子,说简单就简单,说复杂也复杂。在乡下每家都是选用上好的黄豆,自己去加工打(磨)豆腐后,在家用刀将豆腐切成四方块,再装进盆子一层一层地洒满精盐腌制。过了七把日子(即一个星期),豆腐也腌进了咸味,待有太阳的日子,每天都要拿出去到门前嗮。

    豆腐干子是否嗮好,先看豆腐的色泽,再用手摸它的硬软。也就是说,表面紧皮呈黄色,或晒干的程度,若是“验收”合格了,就收到家里存放。但有的地方,把半干的豆腐,放进锅里蒸一遍,再装进竹篮里挂在灶台上,每天让做饭烧柴火的烟子熏。所以,两道不同的做法,也会有两种不同的味道。

    豆腐副产品霉渣

    讲了干豆腐的制作,该说一说豆腐干子的吃法。都知道,豆腐干子是百搭菜。它和腊肉是绝配。先把干豆腐切成细丝,接着用温水泡上一小时左右,否则,干豆腐就会很咸。若是腊肉炒干豆腐加藜蒿和蒜苗,那个香味没得话说,吃在嘴里不觉得腻。

    蘑菇烘干豆腐

    近几年,江陵城乡很流行用豆腐干和腊肉做火锅,在餐馆也是一道有特色的乡土菜肴。把它们都切成一样的大小片,一边吃一边加,那口感非常地好,也是一碗下酒菜。记得下乡插队时,农村过年招待客人先吃碟子干菜,都会有一盘切片的豆腐干做配菜。也许是怀念那个味,每年都有朋友送来尝鲜。我;岚迅啥垢屠叭馇谐善,一起放到饭锅里蒸,它是我的一碗下饭菜,吃起来有滋有味,满口余香。

    一个人能吃一钵子哈

    干豆腐,其做法和吃法诸多。但与当地的习俗和口味,有着不同的制作和烹饪,不想一一赘述了。因为花未开、月未圆,乃是最美的意境。所以,写东西也是一样,留一点空间,让我们一起慢慢地去回味。比如小时候没什么零食吃,中午放学回来从晒干豆腐的簸箕里带上一小块干豆腐,带到学校用小刀切成小块慢慢品尝……


    霉渣烘花糕

    无论脚步走多远,在人们的脑海中,只有故乡的味道熟悉而顽固,它像一个味觉系统,一头锁定千里之外的异地,另一头则永远牵绊着,记忆深处的故乡,乃至舌尖上的味道。年关近了,年味渐浓,远处飘来干豆腐的腊香,时而刺激我的味蕾;唯有一盘盛满乡愁的干豆腐,才是母亲的味道,吃得暖心亦暖胃。

    那么问题来了,请问在那里才能买到正宗又好吃的干豆腐呢?熊河镇熊河村有家豆制品加工老作坊,专业打豆腐20年!只要你家里有黄豆,师傅们会在江陵各个乡镇上门去收豆子,打好豆腐再送货上门,足不出户就能吃到图中的干豆腐!至于晒豆腐就要靠太阳公公啦~ 联系方式:裴师傅15971600639,黄师傅13972328167

    作者简介:袁丹银、男、生于1958年、中共党员、荆州市江陵人,湖北省作家协会会员。以笨拙之笔记录点滴的生活,以敬畏之心雕刻思想的花朵,永远放歌在文学的路上。闲暇之余,擅长诗歌、歌词、朗诵诗、随笔散文等,曾在报刊、电台、网站发表文学作品千余首(篇)。

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